Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their children do not want to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to learn these tales and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
